Why Bandung is the world's best-kept secret for handmade boots – and the brands to know

Style & Beauty Plus, a beginner's guide to choosing the right pair of Bandung-made boots. Brands including Sagara Bootmaker, Briselblack, Onderhoud Handmade and Txture have earned international followings for their craftsmanship. (Photos: Instagram/onderhoud.handmade, sagarabootmaker, txture, briselback_bootmaker; art: CNA/Chern Ling) New: You can now listen to articles. This audio is generated by an AI tool. Intrepid travellers know Bandung for its Art Deco architecture, cool mountain air, sprawling tea plantations and dramatic volcanic landscapes. But among heritage menswear enthusiasts and boot collectors, the Indonesian city is famous for something else entirely.The capital of West Java – often called Paris van Java for its colonial-era elegance and thriving creative culture – has quietly become one of the world's most respected destinations for handmade boots. In boot circles, a pair of handmade boots from Bandung is mentioned in the same breath as iconic heritage brands such as Red Wing, Viberg and White's Boots. What began as a niche local craft has evolved into a global phenomenon, with collectors from Japan, Australia, Europe and the United States making the pilgrimage to place custom orders.HOW BANDUNG BECAME A BOOTMAKING POWERHOUSEJust as Japan's Okayama Prefecture has become synonymous with world-class selvedge denim, Bandung has earned a reputation as the epicentre of Indonesia's bootmaking industry.The city's shoemaking heritage stretch back to the Dutch colonial era in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when European shoemaking techniques were introduced to Bandung. Districts such as Cibaduyut developed into specialised footwear hubs, nurturing generations of leather craftsmen and shoemakers whose skills were passed down through families and workshops.Yet Bandung's rise as a global bootmaking destination is a much more recent story. Handmade boots made by Sagara. (Photo: Sagara) In the early 2000s, the global boom in raw denim and heritage menswear sparked growing interest in American workwear. Through online forums and menswear communities, Indonesian enthusiasts discovered legendary bootmakers such as Red Wing, White's Boots, Wesco and Viberg. Rugged service boots, engineer boots and military-inspired styles became highly sought after.There was just one problem: Imported boots were prohibitively expensive for many Indonesians.Fortunately, Bandung already possessed something equally valuable – a deep pool of skilled leather artisans, established footwear workshops and more than a century of shoemaking expertise. An artisan with a pair of handmade boots. (Photo: Sagara) Brands such as Sagara Bootmaker, Briselblack, Onderhoud Handmade and Txture are no longer viewed as alternatives to American bootmakers. Rather than simply admiring American boots from afar, a new generation of craftsmen began studying them obsessively. Some would purchase imported boots, dismantle them piece by piece and analyse every stitch, pattern and construction method. They learnt not only the aesthetics of heritage boots, but also the traditional techniques behind them.What started as respectful homages gradually evolved into something uniquely Indonesian.Today, Bandung's leading bootmakers have developed their own design language, blending influences from military footwear, workwear and outdoor boots with Indonesian craftsmanship and extensive customisation. Brands such as Sagara Bootmaker, Briselblack, Onderhoud Handmade and Txture are no longer viewed as alternatives to American bootmakers – they are respected names in their own right. A pair of handmade boots from Bandung starts from S$450 (US$349).The city that once looked to American work boots for inspiration now attracts orders from boot enthusiasts from the very country that inspired them. INSIDE ONE OF BANDUNG'S BEST BOOTMAKERS Tucked away in one of Bandung's busy alleyways is Sagara Bootmaker (Sagara means "sea" in Sanskrit, a tribute to Indonesia's maritime history), one of the brands responsible for putting Indonesian boots on the global map.Inside the workshop, artisans spend weeks transforming pieces of leather into footwear. Each pair passes through more than 200 individual steps, from selecting and cutting the leather to shaping the last, hand-welting the midsoles and outsoles, before finally being conditioned, polished and waxed."We are leading the market and setting the standard, both in craftsmanship and material selection," owner and creative director Bagus Satrio, 38, told CNA Lifestyle in an email interview. Owner and creative director of Sagara Bootmaker, Bagus Satrio. (Photo: Sagara) The process is deliberately slow."We need a month or more to make a pair of custom boots," he said. "Each step is undertaken by a different artisan to maintain consistent quality."One of Sagara's signatures is its saddle stitching, which Satrio believes offers greater durability than conventional machine lockstitching. More importantly, the boots are designed to last decades, with construction methods that allow them to be repaired and resoled repeatedly. We need a month or more to make a pair of custom boots. Why insist on making by hand?"Humans use feelings to adjust the tension when sewing and lasting the leather," Satrio explained. "The tension is exactly right, just what the leather needs."Over time, he says, the leather gradually moulds itself to the wearer's feet, producing a fit that machines struggle to replicate.For first-time buyers, Satrio recommends spending time researching boot construction and leather types to best decide what styles and details they want before placing an order. "The best way (to shop) is to visit and get measured in person," he said matter-of-factly. "But if you can't visit, consult our product expert, who can help determine your size by comparing it with size charts from other footwear brands."Those not ready to commission a bespoke pair can also enquire about ready-made stock, although Satrio admits these often sell out fast. “Ask even if you see that a model is marked as 'sold out' on the website, because sometimes, we may have stock that we haven’t had the time to update online.”THREE OTHER BANDUNG BOOTMAKERS TO KNOWTHE INNOVATOR: TXTUREFounded in founder Joe Rahadiantara's garage in 2009, Txture has grown into one of Bandung's best-known heritage bootmakers. Its handcrafted service boots and military-inspired designs combine traditional construction with contemporary styling. The Tanka Boot remains one of the brand's signature models. THE ARTIST: ONDERHOUND HANDMADEFounder Rizky Afnan deliberately keeps production small, producing only two or three pairs of hand-welted boots each week. The scarcity, coupled with painstaking craftsmanship, has earned Onderhoud Handmade cult status among collectors. Customers join a lottery-style ordering list for the opportunity to buy a pair. THE MODERNIST: BRISELBLACKFormerly known as Benzein, Briselblack rebranded in 2024 with a stronger international focus. Unlike many Bandung makers known for rugged lace-up boots, the brand has built its reputation on refined Chelsea, side-zip and Jodhpur boots that marry traditional construction with contemporary design. STARTER KIT: WHAT TO BUY FROM BANDUNGThinking about giving Bandung boots a go but don’t know where to begin? Here’s a beginner’s guide on what to shop.IF YOU'RE BUYING YOUR FIRST PAIRConsider: Service boots Why: Because of its versatility. Its clean silhouette and lace-up design work with almost everything from berms to jeans to trousers. Less rugged than work boots, they work well even in smart-casual getups. Try: Sagara M43 Army boots, S$736.83Available at Sagara. IF YOU WANT SOMETHING CASUALConsider: Monkey bootsWhy: The lace-to-toe construction and vintage military styling have become synonymous with Indonesian bootmaking.Try: Txture Tanka boots, US$500/S$648Available at Txture. IF YOU PREFER SOMETHING SLEEKConsider: Chelsea bootsWhy: Want a boot that doesn’t make you look like you’re about to set off to a war zone? Then Chelsea boots are the easiest entry point. Its sleek silhouette pairs well with urban settings. Try: Briselblack The Seventh, US$700/S$897Available at Briselblack. IF YOU'RE BIG ON CRAFTSMANSHIPConsider: Hand-welted bootsWhy: If you’re a proud boot nerd who is big on construction, hand-welted boots are the way to go. The highest level of bootmaking, these shoes will outlast you even in the toughest terrains. Try: Onderhoud LCV01 Maryam Salvia Waxed Horsebutt, price upon enquiryAvailable at Onderhound Handmade. IF YOU WANT THE QUINTESSENTIAL BANDUNG PURCHASEConsider: Monkey bootsWhy: These lace-up monkey boots have become strongly associated with Indonesian makers. The distinctive eyelet configurations, high lace profile and vintage military influences are what makes a pair of Bandung-made boots unique. Try: Sagara Cordmaster Horsebutt, S$736.83Available at Sagara.