Where to Go in Greece If 'The Odyssey' Is on Your Mind

Where to Go in Greece If 'The Odyssey' Is on Your Mind

Greeks will tell you that Homer’s epic tale with its themes of hospitality, loyalty, feasting, and homecoming is still a true reflection of Greek culture today. Having lived in Megalo Nisi (the big island) of Crete for more than 15 years (and speaking the language), I’ve come to experience this firsthand. Like the story of Nausicaa, who finds the shipwrecked Odysseus and feeds and guides him, I can’t count how many times my neighbors have left bags of grapes and bunches of vlita (wild greens) on my doorstep, or helped me out when my old jeep has broken down (again).Homer’s obsession with nostos—homecoming—is seen here every Easter when families return from the cities or overseas to be with their loved ones—and leave reluctantly, bearing gifts of raki made in a local still, yiayia’s kalitsounia pastries and other home-made souvenirs. As for the trauma of war and the acquisition of resilience through hardship, all of these themes are familiar to modern Greeks whose parents or grandparents lived through the tragic population exchange in 1922, the civil war after WW2 and the succeeding poverty that forced more than a million of the country’s inhabitants to emigrate in search of work.Kayaks in a lagoon on Fteri beach, Kefalonia Getty ImagesWith Nolan’s movie about to hit screens, set-jetters will be flocking to some of the most recognizable spots linked to the film: Messenia, with its Bronze Age Nestor’s Palace and dramatic natural scenery, or Voidokilia Beach’s omega-shaped bay. Beyond those glitzy screen settings, however, there are more authentic ways to experience Homer’s epic. Here are seven alternative ways to take a deep dive into the psyche that shaped The Odyssey.1. Take a guided philosophy walkEchoing the ancient Peripatetic tradition of debate and walking that was popular with Socrates and Aristotle, Costa Navarino’s guided Echoes of the Odyssey philosophy walks are led by classical scholars and academics who shed light on life in ancient Greece whilst exploring themes from Homer’s epic poem, composed in the 8th century BC. As you wander through sun-gilded olive groves, your expert will explore the themes of heroism, resilience and nostos—a subtle word that incorporates our sense of identity and our need to return to a place where we feel that we belong—through the lens of Odysseus’s adventures.How to do it?Costa Navarino sits at the heart of the olive-grove-studded, golden-beach-strewn Messenia region, central to Homer’s narrative, where Telemachus, Odysseus's son, traveled to seek news of his father. With spa treatments inspired by ancient wellness traditions, this 1,000-hectare resort destination, surrounded by traditional villages and archaeological sites associated with Homer’s epic, is the ideal base.The Archaeological site of the School of Homer, Ithaca Getty Images2. Take an Ithaca history tour"My home is Ithaca, crowned with clear-seen Mount Neriton, covered with waving forests," Odysseus says in Book Nine when he reveals his identity to the Phaeacians. Although it wasn’t used for filming in Nolan’s film, this rugged island, steeped in history and strewn with ancient sites where Penelope awaited her hero’s return, is well worth visiting. Whether you follow in the hero’s footsteps as you stroll through the village of Stavros to admire Italian architect Bruno Mazzali’s magical model of Odysseus’ Palace, seek out the clay mask inscribed with "prayer to Odysseus" in the archaeological museum next door, or hike up to Homer’s School, a monumental sanctuary that archaeologists believe could be the actual location of Odysseus’ palace, this is the perfect immersive experience.How to do it?Ithaca History Tours has eight-hour guided tours taking in the main sites and sights of Odysseus’ island. Sadly, you can’t stay at our hero’s palace, but Perantzada Hotel 1811, a boutique beauty in a stylish renovated 19th-century mansion in the island’s buzzy capital, Vathy, is definitely the next best option.Paleokastritsa beach, Corfu Getty Images3. Hop on a Homer-aligned sailing tripNolan, who prides himself on the authenticity of his films, used a real wooden ship modified to resemble an ancient Mycenaean-era vessel in his Odyssey, and all the actors had rowing lessons before they stepped aboard. For a less challenging (but just as fascinating) way to mimic Odysseus’ travels through the Ionian Islands, try a hands-on, Homer-inspired sailing trip. You might not meet nymphs and monsters, but a sailing tour calling at the ancient harbors that shaped Greek mythology and defined Homer’s epic is a vivid way to experience the areas that inspired one of history’s greatest tales.How to do it?For rugged Nolan-style realism, enjoy your own epic adventure on SailTies’ The Odyssey Return, a ten-day hands-on trip departing from Kefalonia and calling at Ithaca, Paxos and Corfu. Less heroic travellers who like a tad more luxury will prefer to sail the Odyssey Route from Lefkas with Sunsail.Methoni Castle Getty Images4. Discover behind-the-scenes MesseniaNolan filmed extensively in Messenia, the region where Odysseus’ son Telemachus hunts for news of his father. In Nolan’s film, however, you’ll only glimpse these legendary sites. For a real immersive experience you need to spend a week here: ambling through Nestor’s beautifully conserved Bronze Age Palace, with its clay bath where it’s thought that ‘the fair Polycaste’ anointed Telemachus with oil before he departed for Sparta; exploring the tholos (beehive) tombs, where the Mycenaean elite who inspired Homer’s tales were buried; swimming in the perfect blue horseshoe of Voidokilia Bay or hiking to Nestor’s Cave, which was the backdrop for Odysseus’ blinding of the Cyclops in Nolan’s version of Homer’s epic.How to do it?Soak up that Homeric atmosphere at Karalis Beach Hotel, a bijou boutique retreat bang on the waterfront in Pylos, where Telemachus set out on his own odyssey to find his father.5. Visit a theme parkAnother location that doesn’t feature in Nolan’s film, the lush green Ionian island of Kefalonia, with its dramatic mountain landscapes and idyllic turquoise water-trimmed bays, and impressive Bronze Age tombs, certainly merits cinematic glory. Often touted as an alternative location for our hero’s homeland because it was once a major Mycenaean centre, the island’s unique Odysseus Theme Park offers a fun way for all the family to approach this legendary tale in a modern setting. Experience the myth of Homer’s epic first-hand as you stroll through sun-dazzled forests to meet the Cyclops, stop up your ears from the Sirens or discover the palace where Odysseus, disguised as a beggar, drove out his wife’s suitors.How to do it?The Odysseus Theme Park sprawls across 30 sylvan acres near the coastal village of Sami, on the island’s dramatically picturesque eastern coast. After your epic encounters, explore Melissani Cave’s mysterious underground lake by boat and then soak up more of the island’s magical atmosphere at adults-only Odyssey Boutique Hotel in the tranquil fishing village of Agia Efimia.Weaving loom and traditional fabric Getty Images6. Learn to weave like PenelopePenelope’s patience as she worked at her loom in the Odyssey mirrors the weaving tradition of the Messenia region, which dates back to ancient times. During the 19th century, the Messenian capital of Kalamata, with its castle-topped old town and café-strewn seafront, was an important centre for silk production, which was used to weave the finest brocade and damask goods, often on the same kind of vertical warp-weighted loom used by Odysseus’s cunning wife.How to do it?During Costa Navarino’s “Penelope’s Heritage”weaving workshop, you’ll discuss Homeric themes of loyalty and resilience whilst learning traditional local weaving techniques.7. Cast away in Corfu, GreeceTowards the end of Homer’s epic, our shipwrecked hero washes up on the island of Scheria, land of the seafaring Phaeacians, where he’s discovered by the princess Nausicaa. Nolan might not have filmed in Corfu, but this lush island is generally considered to be the location of the mythical Scheria, described by Homer as ‘a seafaring city with excellent harbors, public spaces, temples, and fortifications’. Drink in that Homeric ambience as you explore the rugged coastline and pristine bays of Paleokastritsa, where legend has it Odysseus was washed ashore, or stroll through the island’s scenic old town, which has long been a strategic maritime hub.How to do it?Feed on Homeric-style treats – grilled meats, fresh octopus, sheep’s cheese - at century-old family-run taverna Tripa in the traditional hillside village of Kinopiastes. Sleep like a god at Akrotiri Beach Resort & Spa overlooking Paleokastritsa’s serenely scenic bays.

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