People Think My Nails Are Fake All Thanks to Japanese Gel Manicures

One of my favorite compliments to receive is “I love your nails!” Even more fun than hearing those words is seeing people’s faces when I reply, “thanks, they’re real!” My natural nails weren’t always so long or strong. For years, I couldn’t grow them past my fingertips without at least one cracking or breaking. That all changed when I switched from regular gel to Japanese gel manicures.I’ve tried nearly every type of manicure on my nail journey—shellac nails, dip powder nails, gel-X, Russian manicures, you name it. Japanese gel is the only one that has made a major difference in my claws. Why? Well, for starters, it lasts longer than traditional gels and looks super shiny, too. But beyond the looks, it has completely transformed the health of my nails.What makes this type of gel better for your nails? Keep reading to discover everything you need to know about Japanese gel manicures.What are Japanese gel nails?Japanese gel nails utilize a different type of gel than what we typically get at the nail salon (or DIY at home) in the U.S. Typically, these gels are made in Japan, and they come in a pot or jar, says nail artist Paola Ponce. FYI, this was the original method of application for gel polish, but the American market quickly put them in standard nail polish bottles for faster application, whereas Japanese artists have preserved this method, says Ponce.Another key factor that sets Japanese gel polish apart from others is the fact that they are a soft gel. “This means that the product has some flexibility to it, which is really beneficial for your natural nails,” explains celebrity manicurist, Rachel Arreola-Rodriguez.Here’s a nail fun fact for you: Your nails grow and shrink any time they are exposed to water for extended periods of time, like when you wash the dishes or take a shower. “When your nails shift in size, the Japanese gel flexes with your nails and protects them, functioning like a silicone phone case,” says Arreola-Rodriguez. “The gel also absorbs shock, giving some leeway to the things your nails are exposed to daily.”Because of this (and a few other reasons that I’ll get into), Japanese gel is typically longer-lasting and thought to be healthier for your nails. Which brings us to...Is a Japanese manicure good for your nails?According to Arreola-Rodriguez, Japanese gel manicures are widely considered to be better for your natural nails. “Unlike other nail enhancement products and services that rely on strong acids, harsh primers, or aggressive filing, Japanese gels use gentle, cosmetic-grade formulas that bond to the nail without stripping or weakening it,” she says. “These gels are soft and flexible, moving with the natural nail rather than hardening against it. This helps prevent lifting, cracking, and brittleness common with acrylics and hard gels.”Ponce adds that “damage to the nail often occurs during prep on the natural nail and the removal of the product. Most Japanese gel nail systems don’t require a nail dehydrator before applying the base coat, which eliminates a step that’s significantly drying.”What is the difference between gel and Japanese gel nails?Regular gel—AKA what we are used to using at salons and at home—and Japanese gel are fairly different for a lot of reasons. Along with being in a pot rather than your standard polish bottle, Japanese gel is more viscous, explains Ponce, making it great for creating extensions, filling in ridges, or overall making your nails look super smooth. This can also help with longevity and chipping, since the nail feels stronger and less prone to breaking.Another major difference is how the product is removed. Japanese gel is a bit thicker than standard gel polishes, so it has to be filed down. Typically, artists like Ponce recommend “rebalancing,” aka filing the gel down thin and reapplying new gel on top. Typically, she only removes the gel fully when a client is taking a break from gel in general. This is unlike traditional gel manis, where you remove and redo your gel every single time.With all of the above in mind, Japanese gel at the salon can take a bit longer. Think: An hour versus 45 minutes. It also might cost $10 to $15 more. (Expect a full manicure to be anywhere from $65 to $110 depending on your location, the salon, nail art, etc.).How long does the Japanese manicure last?A Japanese gel manicure should last a minimum of three weeks, says Ponce, “but often the product stays on until you’re ready to redo the nails again.” One of my Japanese gel manicures lasted six weeks (!!) without chipping or cracking, but I typically schedule appointments every three to four weeks.Can you do a Japanese gel manicure at home? Yes, you can, as long as you have all the right tools and products. But that’s not exactly easy for the standard person, let alone a professional, says celebrity nail artist Julie Kandalec. “Many sites require us to register and show proof of licensing first, and the top Japanese lines are not available on Amazon,” she explains. So if you wanna try, go for it, but probs just leave it to the pros.Our reviews:Mary Honkus, Contributing Beauty EditorAbout my nailsI’ve been regularly getting professional manicures for about four years, and since I made the switch to Japanese two years ago, I’ve never looked back. I like to wear my nails long—like past my fingertips long—and I’ve only been able to achieve the look without extensions with Japanese gel.I’m not the most gentle with my nails, either. I’m a weight-lifting girlie and travel often, so I’m constantly putting my hands—and nails—through the wringer. I haven’t experienced any nail breakage this year, though, which I believe is a testament to the strength of Japanese gel.My appointmentsI get my Japanese gel manicures at Akiko Nails in NYC. Typically, I space them out every three to four weeks, and allot two hours for each appointment. During the first 40 minutes, my nail technician files off my old gel and meticulously grooms my cuticles. I usually keep the length and prefer my nails to be almond shaped, so my tech shapes and buffs my nail beds until they’re smooth and ready for the gel.I often get some sort of simple nail art, which tacks time onto the appointment. I don’t mind sitting there for extended periods of time, though. A friend routinely accompanies me and we’ll yap as we get our nails done.My experience and resultsI continuously get Japanese gel because of how long my manicures last and how long my nails have grown. People often think I have extensions, and they’re shocked to learn my nails are real. Because of this I’m a total loyalist! My nails rarely chip or break, either. It’s the only manicure that has been able to keep up with my busy lifestyle.Mary HonkusI constantly recommend my nail studio—and Japanese gel manicures, in general—to friends because of my positive experience. I don’t see myself ever straying from this type of manicure.Mary HonkusBeth Gillette, Beauty EditorAbout my nailsI’m a recovering gel extension user, and my nail beds have been brutalized, to say the least. Like, they were basically breaking off every second and looked so horrendous, I didn’t even wanna put press-ons on top of them. I knew I wanted to grow my nails to a slightly longer length and make them look a teensy bit healthier.But I’ve done regular gel a zillion times over the years—usually, they just chip or break in a few days. I’m super hard on my nails, and I pry open a dozen packages a day for my job. Needless to say, I was intrigued about Japanese gel but highly skeptical.The appointmentI went to Mellow Bar in NYC, which is a hot spot for Japanese gel. The appointment was simple because I didn’t have any gel on my nails already, so I didn’t require a removal. It took about 45 minutes total, starting with a serious cleanup of my cuticles, shaping, and cutting down my nails.My technician prepped my nails with a base coat, then we immediately went into the polish. Japanese gel works in thin layers, so it was more than I was used to, even for a sheer style. This is why it takes a little longer than your average manicure, but it didn’t really bother me. I listened to a podcast and enjoyed my time. Everything was cured between layers, then we went over my nails with a top coat to seal it all in. Obvi, we ended with a damn good massage and my nails looked so shiny.My experience and resultsI tracked the progress of my nails for three weeks to see how they’d fare over time to test the longevity claims on Japanese gel nails (pics below, ofc).Beth GilletteMy nails after one week.After a week, I was seriously impressed. My nails still looked basically perfect, when usually, they’d be a bit dingy at this point. I also already had more growth than normal too. Typically, if I wanted my nails to look amazing forever, this would be annoying. But as I’m trying to grow out my nails right now, this was a welcome surprise.Beth GilletteMy nails after two weeks.The second week, my nails grew so long. I was shocked. And they still hadn’t chipped. For a standard gel manicure, this was unreal. I’ve never had a gel manicure that wasn’t gel-X last any longer than two weeks on me. Hell, I’m lucky to get a week and a half. So this was huge. My nails also still looked shiny. I wasn’t shying away from posting pics with my hands on IG like I normally would with a grown-out, two-week-old manicure.Beth GilletteMy nails after three weeks.By the third week, though, my nails were starting to look a lil worse for wear. My thumb chipped a little. (To be fair, I’m in the midst of packing for a move, so my hands are being used for hard labor rn.) My growth is also impressive. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing—I want my nails to grow!—but it doesn’t look cute, I’d say.Final verdictIf you’re trying to grow your nails out or looking for a manicure that will last longer than average, we highly recommend trying Japanese gel. Because of how the soft gel flexes with your nails, it protects and cushions your nails without damaging them. Keep in mind that this type of manicure is a bit more expensive and time-consuming than regular gel, but if you have the time and it fits in your budget, it’s 100 percent worth it.Meet the experts: Paola Ponce​ is a nail artist and educator. She is a certified Japanese gel educator with three of the top brands in Japan and has been specializing in Japanese gel for 10 years.Rachel Arreola-Rodriguez is a celebrity manicurist and Japanese gel educator.Julie Kandalec is a celebrity nail artist and educator with her own salon in New York. Her client list includes Jessica Chastain, Joe Jonas, and Emily Blunt. She’s also the founder of Julie K Nail Academy where she provides nail education to salons and spas.Why trust Cosmopolitan?Mary Honkus is a contributing beauty editor for Cosmopolitan with more than eight years of experience in the beauty industry. She always has her nails done and swears by Japanese gel manicures. For this story she interviewed nail artists to learn more about this manicure style and shared her firsthand experience with Japanese gel.Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan with six years of experience researching, writing, and editing nail stories that range from natural nail designs to Bubble Bath nails. For this story, she tested Japanese gel nails for three weeks and interviewed leading nail experts to get the scoop on what a Japanese manicure is, what makes it different, and if it’s healthier.Mary Honkus is a freelance writer who covers beauty, home, fashion, health, and wellness (just call her a jack of all trades!). She has held staff roles at Real Simple, People, and InStyle, and her bylines can be found in numerous other publications. When she's not testing the latest and greatest products, she can be found chilling on her Hell's Kitchen rooftop, checking out NYC's hottest new restaurants, or recording her podcast Good Trouble NYC. Follow her on Instagram.Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan, where she covers skincare, makeup, hair, nails, and more across digital and print. She can generally be found in bright eyeshadow furiously typing her latest feature or hemming and hawing about a new product you "have to try." Prior to Cosmopolitan, she wrote and edited beauty content as an Editor at The Everygirl for four years. Follow her on Instagram for makeup selfies and a new hair 'do every few months.