Former convent is the ulimate hotel for book lovers

The hotelThe Literary Man, Obidos, PortugalCheck-inBook it – The Literary Man, Obidos, Portugal.Staying at The Literary Man means dragging my suitcase 400 metres from the bus stop along a snaky cobbled street, but it’s worth the short-term headache. It’s just past dusk, and all would be silent if not for my suitcase wheels rattling over the stones towards the heritage hotel, which glows like a beacon on the fringe of medieval Obidos, illuminated by two diamond-shaped lanterns. Stepping through French doors, the chill is superseded by a cosy ambience and a soundtrack of jazz.The reception area is tiny, akin to a study nook, with a single, glass-topped desk beside windows exposing the hotel’s showpiece: a bibliophile’s utopia. Beneath vaulted stone archways, a lounge is encased by paperback-lined walls. Intimate tables illuminated by candlelight, a fireplace, a couch and wafts – both pungent and perfumed – of aged books fill the space between. Just my luck: the hotel’s half-occupancy leads to an upgrade.Sign up for the Traveller newsletterThe latest travel news, tips and inspiration delivered to your inbox. Sign up now.The lookBooks form the heart of the hotel.Formerly a 19th-century convent, this boutique property is widely regarded as the world’s largest literary hotel. More than 85,000 books take up space – or collect decades of dust – on overstocked shelves. The vast collection hardly follows the Dewey Decimal system; guests can borrow books and return them as they please throughout the labyrinthine hallways, common areas, rooms and reading spaces, adding to the chaotic order. The accommodation’s novel offering is a natural fit for Obidos’ UNESCO Creative City of Literature status.The roomInside a superior suite deluxe room.Twenty-three rooms are categorised into four types and offer a minimalist refuge from the hotel’s storied clutter. My 25-square-metre superior deluxe suite includes two bathrooms and a lounge, with the bedroom partitioned by sliding, pallet-like doors. When closed, it reveals more bookshelves, albeit 2D, printed on wallpaper. The eco-friendly design is grounded in honeyed timber floors and a polished marble-grey feature wall. Industrial pendant lights dangle over bedside tables that resemble pallet offcuts. A balcony overlooking a secret garden features two boxy wooden chairs in a prime position for the morning sun. Another ideal spot for reading.Food + drinkHotel hallways, with books at the end.Come sundown, the main library undergoes a literary metamorphosis, becoming Book & Cook restaurant. The softly lit diner offers traditional Portuguese dishes, spotlighting regional ingredients. After dinner, linger at the bar over a glass of port and, perhaps, a book from the shelf.Out + aboutOne of Portugal’s seven wonders, Castelo de Obidos, is the hilltop village’s star attraction, now reimagined as a hotel and restaurant. Request a seat at table 15, which commands sweeping views of rolling green hills, vineyards and the distant Atlantic. Then walk the town’s historic walls, which wrap around the medieval centre for about 1.5 kilometres. Once you get past the height factor (no guardrails, here) and steep descents, marvel at the maze of centuries-old terracotta roofs separated by stony paths.Obidos is famous for its crimson Ginjinha. The sour cherry liqueur is available at pop-up bars, souvenir stalls and restaurants along the pedestrian strip, Rua Direita, for a few euros. Choose to soften the potent blow by drinking it out of an edible chocolate cup.The verdictThere are many ways to amuse yourself at this book-filled retreat. Whether having some “me” time in a reading nook, savouring Portugal’s heritage on a plate, enjoying the theatre of an open kitchen or sipping coffee in the sun-drenched garden, this hotel’s story is one worth sharing.EssentialsFrom €96 ($160) a night. The Literary Man, Rua D. Joao D’Ornelas, Leiria, 2510-074 Portugal. Phone: +351 959 214. See theliteraryman.pt/enOur score out of five★★★★½HighlightBask in a slow morning: the generous breakfast buffet includes traditional, house-baked Portuguese sweet and savoury goods and is available until 11am.LowlightThe Book & Cook live cooking experience must be booked in advance.The writer stayed at The Literary Man at her own expense.Perth-based writer Julia D'Orazio changed her degree to tourism after her first backpacking trip. She has lived in Estonia, England and France, travelled to more than 70 countries and contributed to international travel books.From our partners