The flour has barely settled in this new season of the Great British Baking Show. The tent is still at capacity, only one cake has toppled over, and the viewing public is still sizing up the show’s newest judge, Nigella Lawson.Following the premiere, one particular asset of Lawson’s charm successfully pulled focus from Mr. Hollywood’s Chenoo eyes: the way she samples the bakes. Specifically, viewers described her bites as “huge and awkward,” possibly due to “poor table manners” or dental work.What’s clear to me, a fan, is that many are simply unfamiliar with Lawson’s game. Particularly that she, as one of the foremost living public appreciators of food, has a signature way of consuming it: Joyful, guileless, and without shame. The way Nigella eats reflects her broader philosophy about food and how it should be enjoyed. It’s a philosophy that’s long been misunderstood.She’s been this way on camera since her Y2K-era television debut, on the aptly named Nigella Bites. It’s the show that transformed the career journalist and food critic into a legendary doyenne of home cooking, as well as a constant tabloid fixation for legions of perverts with bylines. It was, notably, a show where Lawson regularly ate in front of the camera like nobody was watching.In one episode called TV Dinners, Lawson hastily slaps together a pantry riff on mozzarella in carrozza with her signature do-what-works-for-you candor. While holding the fried pocket above her head, she chomps at it repeatedly, coaxing several impressive cheese pulls with her teeth. “Look at that, cheese-flavored chewing gum,” she quips, mouth full.I find it entirely charming. But to my friends and coworkers less familiar with her to whom I’ve shown this video, it’s audacious; shocking in a way that still challenges people in 2026. Shocking that a woman, who looks like her, eats like that, on camera.Lawson has withstood a decades-long vivisection of her body and sexuality. To critics, she’s a seductive vamp, the “queen of gastro-porn,” who they accuse of over-sexualizing cooking and speaking in constant innuendo, despite her continued frustration. She doesn’t talk, she purrs. She doesn’t walk, she slinks. She’s been compared to every named temptress in the Bible. When she eats, it’s pornographic and libidinal, until it's not. Then it’s carnal, beastly. Her mouth becomes a maw, she unhinges her jaw like a snake.It’s an interesting ongoing cultural paradox. While it’s never been more acceptable to be guiltlessly self-indulgent (see goblin mode, performatively indulgent mukbangs, or the rise of maximalist, viral desserts), the way we eat food has also never been more precisely and self-consciously codified, particularly when done in front of a camera lens.You’re familiar with influencer tics whether you know it or not: The exaggerated chews, the crooked finger pressed to the lips while the head bobs like a cockatoo. It’s hyperlegible, unambiguous. It’s YUMMY as a universal gesture. And it’s squeaky clean. There are variations on the theme, but all of them go back to making the act of eating look clean, flat, and attractive on camera (or in the case of mukbangs, a polar opposite extreme.)Lawson seems entirely free and unburdened by all that. In her book Cook, Eat, Repeat she wrote: “No one should feel guilty about what they eat, or the pleasure they get from eating; the only thing to feel guilty about (and even then I don’t recommend it) is the failure to be grateful for that pleasure.” In her writing, she’s always taken care to differentiate the sensuous from the sensual (a nuance her critics in horny jail do not understand).When Nigella takes a bite of food, she considers it. If it’s good, she enjoys it. She’s not having sex with it. So when she takes a massive bite of cake under the Bake Off Tent, free of the vanity of self presentation, she’s just doing as she always has done.It could just be my admittedly gay guy point-of-view (that is, disinclined to female sexuality while inclined to diva worship) but if you dare to just look at her as, say, a normal person, the way she eats isn’t that crazy. Was Nigella Bites really that erotic? Most of the time she’s feeding her kids, running errands, and talking about her grandma on the stairs. The only thing pornish might be all the non-diegetic jazz. Regarding her large bites on GBBS, she told the Telegraph that she just wants to “taste things properly.”If we’re honest with ourselves, we’ve all eaten like Nigella. Anytime you’ve picked a frizzled piece of broiled cheese off a sheet pan, stuffed a burger in your mouth over the sink alone in your apartment, or simply tried to bite a deviled egg you’ve eaten unbecomingly, like Nigella. As we all should! At least, if you love eating. As she says in the preface to her first book How to Eat, “Such love, of course, is not something which can be taught, but it can be conveyed.”And convey it she does.
The Great British Baking Show's Nigella Lawson Takes Big Bites. Stop Being Weird About It
Full Article
Original Source
Read the full article at Bonappetit →KhanList aggregates and links to publicly available news content. We do not host full articles from third-party sources. Always verify important information with original sources.