Seiko Just Re-created Its First-Ever Watch

2 min readThe year is 1913. The first functional zipper has only just been invented, Charlie Chaplin’s first film won’t come out for another year, and wristwatches won’t really take off among men until the First World War. Over in Japan, though, Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori is already ahead of the game.That same year, his company produced the Laurel: Japan’s first wristwatch, complete with a white enamel dial, spindly blue hands, and a bright red 12 at the top. Fast-forward 113 years and Seiko has decided to revisit it.The result is a pair of new Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” watches that borrow some of the Laurel’s best bits without going for a full 1913 reenactment. These are the new Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Enamel (HCC005) and Urushi Lacquer (HCC006), priced at $1,400 and $1,650, respectively.The HCC005 is the closest of the two to the original. Its white enamel dial brings back the blue hands, Arabic numerals, and, crucially, that little red 12. The HCC006 goes in a slightly dressier direction, pairing a black urushi lacquer dial with gold details and a yellow-gold-colored case.Courtesy of SeikoThere’s some serious craft involved in those dials, too. The glossy white dial is made from enamel fired at high temperatures, while the deep black one uses urushi, a traditional Japanese lacquer applied and polished by hand to create its finish. Both techniques are overseen by master craftsmen who have spent decades perfecting them.Thankfully, what’s going on inside has moved on a little since 1913. Both watches measure 39.6mm across and are powered by Seiko’s automatic 6R5H movement, with a 72-hour power reserve. There’s a dual-curved sapphire crystal up top, an exhibition caseback underneath, and an oil-tanned leather strap to keep things suitably old-school.Courtesy of SeikoYou’ll also spot a sub-dial at six o’clock, although it isn’t actually counting the seconds. Instead, it’s a 24-hour indicator linked to the main time—essentially a rather handsome way of telling you whether it’s morning or night.Courtesy of SeikoAnd unlike plenty of heritage revivals, you won’t have to enter a ballot, set three alarms, or start trawling resale sites to get hold of one. Neither version is a limited edition.Turns out 113 years is a pretty good test of whether a watch design has aged well.