On the Edge of Victoria Falls, Zambezi National Park Is a Quiet Wonder

The 1,700-meter-wide falls are undeniably impressive, but so too are riverside wildlife sightings—and the luxe new villas of Mpala Jena safari camp.DEA / V. GIANNELLA/Getty ImagesMosi-ao-Tunya—or the smoke that thunders—is the local name for Zimbabwe's Victoria Falls: a nod to the sound and fury of the cascades that straddle Zambia and Zimbabwe. From half a mile away, on the Zimbabwe side, the spray cools on my face. It's a welcome refreshment on a warm autumn morning.Closer still to the falls, the mist is heavy enough to drench the sightseers stopping to gawk at the spectacle from viewing points, or on slippery pathways between the various lookouts.A baobab in lower Zambezi National Park DEA / V. GIANNELLAThe 1,700-meter-wide falls are undeniably impressive—after all, this is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and considered one of the seven natural wonders of the world. But I'm even more taken by the fact that its white spray often obscures the view entirely, leaving just the incessant and all-encompassing roar of the water in the air.The nearby town of Victoria Falls is far noisier and busier than I'd imagined. “It used to be a small town, but now it has been reclassified as a city,” says Savanah Du Preez, the camp manager at newly opened Mpala Jena Private Villas. Having grown up in and around Victoria Falls, she remembers coming across baboons and wild buffalo on the roads while walking to and from school, she tells me. “Now there are craft beer pubs and gourmet restaurants.”‎Elephants can be seen in the bushes, and crossing the mighty Zambezi River, in Zambezi National Park. Andrew Howard Photo/ Courtesy Mpala Jena CampThe heart of this town is a neat grid of small roads, lined with shops selling tours and safari trips amid a jumble of souvenirs and handicrafts, alongside a smattering of local eateries. I didn't expect to get wood-fired pizzas and chicken masala pies in Victoria Falls, but a clutch of little bakeries and cafes have sprung up to service the ever-growing tourism to the area.But while tourism has boomed, the area still belongs to the wildlife. The town is encircled by protected Zambezi National Park, where animals roam freely throughout its 56,000 hectares. One morning, as we take a pitstop near a 1,200-year-old giant baobab known as the “Big Tree”, my guide Gerald Sibanda points out a huge elephant lurking in the bushes, with tusks like spears. “We still see leopards while driving in the night,” he says.While leopards remain characteristically elusive during my stay, Zambezi National Park rewards in other ways. The boat transfer from Kalambezi jetty, at one end of Victoria Falls town, to my Mpala Jena villa is itself a safari of sorts. Barely 10 minutes into the journey, we spot two elephants swimming across the river, their trunks popping up into the air every few minutes. “They are coming from Zambia to Zimbabwe—they have no need for passports,” Gerald laughs. Matching my best safari sightings over the years, the sight of a mother helping her calf deftly navigate the mighty Zambezi and clamber up the muddy banks moves me to tears.Boat transfers to Mpala Jena safari camp, which is located on an island in the Zambezi River, quickly turn into wildlife safaris. Great Plains ConservationLocated just a few minutes upstream from the Mpala Jena luxury safari camp on the banks of the Zambezi River, my three-bedroom villa, one of two to open in late 2025, is designed to blend airy Italian design straight from Puglia—think drystone walls and conical roofs—with earthy African decor, from rattan accents and earthy terracottas to thatching.The villa is spread out on a private island, with a central living and dining space, and three spacious suites on either side. Each of the suites comes with its own al-fresco bathing area and a verandah for hot afternoons, from where you can watch the local wildlife without leaving the room. My favorite spot quickly becomes a loungey beanbag by the swimming pool—conveniently located next to the pool bar with a direct view of the great river.‎Mpala Jena uses natural materials, thatched roofs, and artisan-made decor. Great Plains ConservationCamp manager Savanah assures me that schedules are flexible (or indeed, nonexistent) here. “You can choose when and what to eat, which activities you would like to do,” she says, as Gerald lists all the excursions on offer. The villa’s seclusion means that it comes with its own hospitality team, including a butler, bartender, chef, and nature guide. Here, too, I am surrounded by the sights and sounds of the African bush: a family of warthogs grazing on the grass, vervet monkeys swinging across branches, red-billed hornbills flitting about in search of worms, a startled impala scrambling into the thickets, and hippos grunting through the night.‎Even an afternoon by the pool is a chance to spot grazing warthogs or swinging monkeys. Great Plains ConservationThe falls can be reached directly by boat in 30 minutes or by 4x4 in 90 minutes through the national park, a ride that doubles up as a game drive. Since it’s the tail end of the monsoon season, many trails are muddy and not open to vehicles, but just staying on the main path brings ample opportunities to see more elephants and antelopes along the way.The nature immersion continues on a sunset cruise to watch curious hippos peeping out of the water, and to admire the startlingly pretty colors of the white-fronted bee-eaters flocking by the banks. Far away from the ceaseless whirring of small aircraft transporting tourists on aerial tours of the falls, this stillness, punctuated only by birdsong, feels beautifully restorative.Not everyone comes to Victoria Falls in search of silence. After I visit the falls, lunch is served at Lookout Café, perched at the edge of the gorge, with a ringside view of the bridge connecting Zimbabwe with Zambia. Over an iced tea and burger, I glimpse adrenaline junkies taking part in the canopy tour (ziplining with a view of the falls and the surrounding hardwood forest) and throwing themselves off the edge at the gorge swing (which looks like bungee jumping on steroids). I may not be tempted, but I can see why Victoria Falls has a reputation as the adventure capital of southern Africa.The Victoria Falls Bridge crosses the Zambezi River and links Zimbabwe and Zambia. VW PicsInstead of daredevilry, Savanah has sent me out for the day with a list of suggestions: a gin distillery tour, the Simunye Cultural Show with foot-tapping music and dance, or artisanal souvenir shopping at Elephant’s Walk artists’ village. I linger longer than I had intended over the colorful beads and block-printed textiles, chatting with the artists who are eager to strike up conversations with visitors. Serious safari-goers can also take day trips to Hwange National Park to see the endangered wild dog, and to Chobe National Park with its massive elephant herds across the border in Botswana. But for me, the thought of sipping a soothingly cold drink on the porch outside my villa is even more alluring. I can already hear the hippos honking.Where to stayThe Mpala Jena Private Villas are perfect for family trips, with three spacious bedrooms and plenty of common areas like a sitting room, lounge, swimming pool, and bar ($6,370, all-inclusive).Within the town, the Victoria Falls Hotel is an old favorite, with 149 rooms and dramatic views of the rocky gorge (doubles from $760).How to plan this tripLightfoot Travel (+971 4455 8671) organizes tailor-made safari holidays to Botswana and Zimbabwe, staying at Great Plains camps and lodges.