Emerging fashion players take centre stage at BRICS+ Fashion Summit

World Designers and fashion businesses from countries such as India and China are forging new connections as they seek a bigger place in an industry long dominated by Western players. The fourth annual BRICS+ Fashion Summit was held in Moscow from Sep 28 to 30. (Image: CNA) New: You can now listen to articles. This audio is generated by an AI tool. MOSCOW: Paris and Milan may still command the global fashion spotlight, but designers and fashion brands from emerging markets are increasingly seeking a bigger share of the stage.The fourth annual BRICS+ Fashion Summit, held in Moscow from Sep 28 to 30, brought together fashion industry players from more than 60 countries.Participants came from countries including Brazil, South Africa, Vietnam and Morocco.The summit focuses on promoting emerging fashion markets and connecting designers, brands and other industry players from around the world. It is also a place to scout new talent, explore new trends and discover designs from beyond the traditional fashion capitals.Behind every collection is a network of designers, manufacturers, suppliers and retailers, and those networks are increasingly stretching across borders.At the summit, a collection could come from India, for example, while the buyer could be Russian and the manufacturer Chinese.Indian designer Kanika Goyal, who has shown in New York and Paris, showcased her collection in Moscow for the first time. Indian designer Kanika Goyal, founder and creative director of Kanika Goyal Label, speaks to CNA at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit. (Image: CNA) Goyal, who is the founder and creative director of her eponymous label, welcomed the growing international exposure for fashion talent from a wider range of countries.“I am excited about that – to meet different people, get different perspectives from all the creatives around the globe,” she said.One jewellery designer who attended the summit said she came for inspiration and to “develop visual experience”. FILLING A GAP IN RUSSIAFor consumers in Russia, brands from other markets are also filling a gap left by Western labels that have suspended or wound down operations in the country following its invasion of Ukraine.They range from mass-market retailers such as Zara and H&M to luxury fashion houses including Chanel and Gucci.One fashion enthusiast said she was interested in fashion from different parts of the world.“I came specifically to see the Indian fashion show today, I really liked it,” she said. “We’ve been missing certain brands since the sanctions, so I am all for Russia welcoming designers from Europe and Asia. Thanks to them, our people here will look much more stylish.” For consumers in Russia, brands from other markets are also filling a gap left by Western labels that have suspended or wound down operations in the country. (Image: CNA) NEW BUSINESS LINKSBut what consumers want to wear is only one part of the fabric of the industry.Just as important is where those clothes are made, and where brands turn to find the suppliers and business partners that bring them to market.For Russian designers, Chinese production is increasingly becoming part of that network.“These summits offer incredibly useful contacts and opportunities for Russian brands,” said Russian designer Alyona Kritskaya.“As a participant in the ‘Made in Moscow’ programme, we receive support from the Moscow government, including information about genuine opportunities to collaborate with China,” she said.She added that there were also organised trips to visit manufacturing facilities in China.The interest runs both ways, with Chinese brands also looking to Russia for growth."Through this show, we can reach many people who like the style of our brand, as well as potential franchise partners,” said Shan Wei, founder and design director of Chinese fashion brand MOMIWEI. Shan Wei, founder and design director of Chinese fashion brand MOMIWEI, speaks to CNA at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit in Moscow. (Image: CNA) “In the future, we hope to bring our brand to the global market. For example, we will also have a store for our brand here in Moscow.”The links being forged at the fashion summit reflect efforts to deepen ties between fashion businesses across BRICS countries and other emerging markets.For fashion businesses, those connections could open doors to new labels, suppliers and customers.The test will be whether these emerging players can turn those new connections into sustained growth and compete with the Western giants of global fashion.