Are You Using Hyaluronic Acid Correctly? The Answer May Surprise You

If you’re even remotely into skincare, chances are you’ve heard of hyaluronic acid. Heck, you probably even use it every day. (I know I can’t live without my hyaluronic acid serum!) The ingredient has been lauded by dermatologists and editors for its hydration-boosting capabilities, but did you know it does so much more than quench skin’s thirst? Also, did you know that if you use it incorrectly it can actually dry out your skin?Fear not! We’re here to break down everything you need to know about the ever-popular hyaluronic acid. Yes, it can be a skincare MVP, as long as you’re incorporating it into your routine in a smart, effective way. Okay, so are you ready to get plump, glowing, hydrated skin? Keep reading to learn the hyaluronic acid basics so you can get the most out of the hydration powerhouse.What does hyaluronic acid do for skin?Hyaluronic acid (HA) is one of the most powerful hydrating ingredients used in skincare, says cosmetic doctor Ana Mansouri, MD. "It's a humectant—meaning it pulls water from the environment to the upper layers of the skin like a sponge." The molecule can hold a lot of water: up to 1,000 times its weight (!), which is why it’s so effective at hydrating skin and keeping your complexion dewy throughout the day. But it does more than simply boost hydration. "By increasing water content in the skin, hyaluronic acid also helps plump the look of fine lines and wrinkles," adds dermatologist Julie Russak, MD.Beyond topical usage, hyaluronic acid is also used in fillers (like lip injections), says dermatologist Lily Talakoub, MD. It works similarly when injected as it does when applied topically, binding to water in your body and plumping the skin. Unlike the hyaluronic acid you find in skincare products, though, the hyaluronic acid used in face fillers is cross-linked, meaning it comes in a gel form that holds its shape to help create volume and structure in the skin, adds Dr. Mansouri.Is hyaluronic acid okay to use every day?Yep! In fact, your skin will benefit from daily application. "Hyaluronic acid is safe and beneficial to use everyday for maintaining skin hydration," says Dr. Russak. However, when you apply it matters. If you are using a toner/essence, serum, and cream with the ingredient, make sure you start with the thinnest formula first, and always finish with SPF.“If you put hyaluronic acid on top of sunscreen or a moisturizer, it’s not going to work,” Dr. Talakoub mentions. “It needs to sit directly on that top layer of your skin to hold the moisture in so it doesn’t evaporate from your skin barrier.”Think of hyaluronic acid as a team player that works best when used with a cream. Usually, a serum isn’t enough to bind moisture to your skin. It needs to be locked in with a moisturizer to give your complexion the nourishment and hydration it needs.Is there a downside to hyaluronic acid?If hyaluronic acid is applied incorrectly, it can actually dry out your skin. (Gasp!) Here’s the deal: If your skin is dry but you’re in a humid room and you slather on hyaluronic acid, it’ll pull moisture from the air and into your dry face. Voilà, moisturized skin!But—but!—if your skin is hydrated and you’re in a dry room (like during winter), the hyaluronic acid sitting on top of your face will pull water out of your skin and evaporate it into the air, leaving your face drier than before.The key to getting the most hydrating benefits out of hyaluronic acid is to apply your product on damp skin. This gives the molecule a water source to draw moisture from. And, like we mentioned before, don’t forget to lock that moisture in with a face cream.Our Favorite Hyaluronic Acid ProductsFinal verdictHyaluronic acid is one of the best hydrating and plumping ingredients—as long as you apply it to clean, damp skin and lock it in with a moisturizer to fully flood your skin with moisture. Every single one of our editors uses a skincare product made with hyaluronic acid, and we highly recommend you do the same.Meet the experts:Ana Mansouri, MD, is a cosmetic doctor at Kat & Co Aesthetics based in the UK who specializes in injectables and aesthetics. Julie Russak, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Russak Dermatologist Clinic and Russak+ Aesthetic Center in New York, NY. Dr. Russak is also an assistant professor at Mount Sinai Hospital, where she teaches dermatology residents and medical students.Lily Talakoub, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at McLean Dermatology and Skincare Center in Virginia and founder of Derm to Door, a virtual skincare consultation service.Why trust Cosmopolitan?Lauren Balsamo is the beauty director at Cosmopolitan where she writes, edits, and produces all types of beauty content—from product reviews to personal essays and trend reports. She has covered beauty for more than a decade at Cosmopolitan. Follow her on Instagram.Mary Honkus is a contributing beauty editor for Cosmopolitan with more than eight years of experience in the beauty industry. She loves testing new products, especially skincare. For this story she consulted with dermatologists and doctors to learn all about hyaluronic acid.Mary Honkus is a freelance writer who covers beauty, home, fashion, health, and wellness (just call her a jack of all trades!). She has held staff roles at Real Simple, People, and InStyle, and her bylines can be found in numerous other publications. When she's not testing the latest and greatest products, she can be found chilling on her Hell's Kitchen rooftop, checking out NYC's hottest new restaurants, or recording her podcast Good Trouble NYC. Follow her on Instagram.Lauren Balsamo is the beauty director at Cosmopolitan where she writes, edits, and produces all types of beauty content—from product reviews to personal essays and trend reports. She has covered beauty for more than a decade at Cosmopolitan. Follow her on Instagram.